Fall is the time of year when it is natural for any gardener to be a little tired of pulling bindweed plants. I hear you, enough with the weeding, farmers’ tan, snails, giant zucchini fruit, grasshoppers and split tomatoes! But wait, before you take a temporary break from your garden, make sure you complete the following checklist of fall turn-down gardening tips – you’ll be glad you did come springtime!
- Make a map of your garden so you can remember where your plants grew this growing season. This is important as you plan your garden next year and rotate plants in the same family to a new section of your garden.
- Pull all your garden plants and toss them in your compost pile (if not diseased) or your green waste bin (if diseased). Weed seeds should also be thrown in your green waste bin.
- Repair planting beds so minimal preparation work is necessary before spring planting.
- Mulch tree leaves and add to compost pile (if not diseased) along with a couple cups of nitrogen fertilizer to speed up the composting rate.
- Plant garlic cloves in late September to November. See the USU Extension fact sheet Garlic in the Garden.
- Plant a winter cover crop – like hairy vetch. See the USU Extension fact sheet Cover Crops for Utah Gardens.
- Plant perennials! Visit your local nursery and save big on hardy perennial woody herb plants, like thyme, sage and oregano. If you are feeling adventurous, try planting a rhubarb plant too!
- Save $$ –fall is a great time to save big on other types of woody fruit producing plants, like berries, grapes and fruit trees.
- Use a little nail polish to mark raspberry canes that fruited this year. You will need to cut fruited canes back to the ground in the early spring so it is easier to identify which ones fruited if they are marked.
- Bonus tip – don’t forget to blow-out your irrigation lines before freezing temperatures hit!
Okay, done? – Great! Now you can sit back, relax and start planning next years’ garden!
4 Responses to Fall Garden Checklist- Top 10
Nice post! The garden map example is very nice. I’m quite new at gardening (just moved to a house with a garden) and needed some guidelines to follow while working in the backyard. The tips are helpful and the checklist is detailed enough for me. Thank you for this post!
Pine needles. Are they bad for gardens and soil?
Marion Murray, from the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) team, responded to a similar question in 2007 on our USU Extension website. She stated: “Pine needles as mulch are not poisonous. They make an excellent mulch and are becoming more and more common as a mulch in flower and vegetable gardens and around trees and shrubs. They stay put in winds and rain, allow water to easily drain through, discourage weed seed germination, and prevent erosion. As mulch, the needles last about 2 years, and can easily be removed and replaced with fresh needles, or covered with new. Apply mulch about 3-4 inches thick in fall or spring. Ideally, it is best if you can work the compost you apply into the soil.
Pine needles have a minimal effect on the pH level of soil. Utah soils are very alkaline (high pH) and many plants we grow in our gardens could benefit from the addition of any materials that lower the soil pH.”
-the organic forecast team
Nice post!! I read your post ,and you explain here more informative information about the garden map . It’s a facinating point. Thanks for sharing this post.